This past Saturday I went to watch Argentina play against Colombia at the River Plate Monumental Stadium. Having to win to remain in good standing for World Cup qualification the game had implications that probably went further than a tourist looking to have a good time. Tickets were 80 pesos a relatively cheap price for decent seats, behind one of the goals. The walk towards the stadium was exactly how I imagined it. Fans shouting, screaming and funneling into the small stadium gates. Something I realize now is that in the Platea section, (the one where we sat as opposed to the Popular where all the hooligans sit) you need to get there early. At a certain point people just start sitting anywhere and not caring about ticket numbers and eventually the pre-game shouting and standing dies down during the game. This made it difficult for us to find seats at first but after we found some we were able to join in the cheering. All of this was before the game started and with the Colombian crowd right behind us we witnessed some dirty jeers, which is exactly what I was expecting. Another thing was that the local crowd was not wearing Argentine attire as I expected. I was decked out in a recently purchased jersey but I guess the locals care more about the football than looking like a fan, which I respect. They showed just that in the first half, with a wide open game with sub par football being played, they were clearly tense and not responding to the Colombian jeers behind them. There were one or two who would turn around and give the Colombians a few hand signals but nothing spectacular. A decent goal in the second half led to a more relaxed crowd and little more interaction with the Colombian fans. It began to get quite fun to watch and honestly more fun than the game. There was one incident where an Argentine lady was jeering a whole crowd of Colombian girls, while men held pesos and shouted. The game ended 1-0 and the fans scurried out to celebrate while the Colombians still screamed and shouted despite a loss. All in all the atmosphere is what made the game. With no clock, no scoreboard, and definitely no big screen with replays, the stadium was about football and fans. Average football was played by both teams, and those who despise football would say it was boring, but the atmosphere made it far from that. I will never forget the shouting, singing and especially the jeering. I never knew that 5 year olds knew bad words and naughty hand signs, and how well they used them, mis dios.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Thursday, June 11, 2009
La Bomba de Tiempo
The other night I attended a a drum percussion concert. Not expecting much I went in thinking that it would just be some low key group with a smallish crowd. I was completely wrong. After walking a fair amount to the venue, we were greeted by a line that wrapped around the block. After getting 15 peso tickets we waited in the long queue that wold eventually evaporate. The venue was kind of like a warehouse and had a very underground feeling to it. We some how managed to stand near the front and my awkward height had me sticking out like a sore thumb. The group La Bomba de Tiempo soon began to play, and they were awesome. There was around 14 of them all playing different percussion instruments, (drums, shakers, etc). They really got the crowd pumped and excited and would be perfect for football and basketball games. I think the coolest thing was that they had a composer who would signal what to do, so everything they played was on the fly. The crowd began moving and enjoying the music but there was more to come. A special guest and his band soon arrived on stage. At the time I had no clue who he was and I barely do now besides for his bands website. He played the keytar and played some groovy tunes while the drums improvised along. The crowd obviously knew who he was and people were pushing just to be up close. One guy actually gave his bracelet to him, but then again what kind of a man wears a bracelet. The crowd soon got pretty intense singing along and a solid mosh pit soon developed. It was crazy and I loved it. People were going wild just jumping around to the funk of Pablo's keytar and the rhythm of La Bombas drums. Altogether it was a great experience marking my discovery of a new music genre.
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Colonia
In Argentina the equivalent of a Butlins vacation (England) or a day at the closest beach (America) is a day trip to the neighboring Uruguay. The town of Colonia lies on the coast of Uruguay and can be reached by a short boat ride. On Sunday we gave the local tourist destination a visit. The tour program that we took was called Buquebus and provided us with the boat ride there and back along with a tour of the town. The ferry left Buenos aires at 8:45 and arrived at Colonia 3 hours later but firstly a little about the ride. The boat was actually pretty nice, it was a weird hybrid between a cruise ship and a ferry, it had the feeling of a small ferry but the comfort of a big ship. After a much needed nap we arrived in Colonia to clouds and lax immigration. After walking their streets for a only 5 minutes, I could see why the town had recently been named a world heritage site. I think this picture can explain it better than I could.
After walking around and seeing sites but not really knowing what they were, we sat down to eat lunch at El Drugstore. After getting over the strange name I began to appreciate the eclectic atmosphere inside. Well decorated, the restaurant had its chefs cooking in the open creating an aroma that made me want to order everything on the menu. I ended up getting chicken and mash potatoes which as boring as it sounds was delicious, and the restaurants atmosphere only made it taste better. We were then on a short bus tour which took us to see things out of walking distance such as the no longer used bull fighting ring and the race track. After the bus tour we went on a walking tour through the historic parts of the town. Speaking rapid Spanish, I was unable to discern most of what the guide was saying, but i did pick some things up. The city is the oldest in Uruguay and was founded by the Portuguese in 1680. We were again given some free time and we ventured to the top of the cities historic lighthouse. It was diffcult to get up there as during the time period it was built by people that averaged a height of 4 feet 9 inches, forcing me to bend, crouch and manouvere my way to the top. Once there though the site was spectacular and if it wasn't for the wind, I may have got a better picture.
Content with the day so far we decided to sit down at a restaurant/bar and I tried the local cerveza Patricia. By this time I was tired but happy that I had visited. The town was tranquil and at ease, a sharp contrast to the bustle of Buenos Aires. The cobblestone roads and the picturesque trees made walking down them a joy, and the only thing that could have made the day better would have been less wind. The ride home was more eventful than the morning trip. A greasy 40 something who thought he was 25 supplied "entertainment", he did sing in the morning, but this time he was able to maintain a steady crowd that cheered and chanted for him. He sang with tremendous emotion but I could only laugh at how cheesy he was. Another interesting observation I made on the boat was that Argentine couples are all about public displays of affection. I noticed this after the two people in front of me leaned there chairs back close enough that i could smell their hair and decided to go at it. It didn't spoil the trip though, and I got home at 11:30 ready to sleep.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
ArteBA
Being a self proclaimed fan of art and with not much else to do after a long hard day of work, I went to a Contemporary Art Exhibition with my program Road2Argentina last Tuesday. I enjoyed the varied selection of art that was offered and got to take a lot of pictures, while also meeting other people from the program. Upon my arrival to the exhibition I noticed my fly was undone, a reoccurring theme that has come with my old age, and realized that the old lady on the train wasn't smiling at me because of my pretty face. That wouldn't be the end of my laughter though.
Appropriately we don't associate art with laughter, it's meant to be inspiring and emotional. It's not like i don't like this type of art, it's just that every now than it's nice when it can offer something different. Not all of the pieces at the exhibition managed to make me chuckle but there were a select few that made me slap my knee. Their creativity and in some cases downright silliness appealed to me and made me smile. Here are a couple of examples (click to enlarge),